Hot start and fuel evaporation while moving

Good work there! As I think I said, my car let me down 4times in the past 35years - 1 dirt in carb (Fiat main dealer in Cov soaked the carb overnight to sort that out 34 years ago 2. snapped fan belt. 3. fleck of petrol pipe blocking main jet (after I replaced all pipes and cleaned the carb!) 4. New (less than 2,000miles) coil went short circuit!

I did a lot of research on Weber Carbs and apparently their design is very susceptible to dirt in the float chamber blocking the jets. I second that.
Its a new year and I'm sure that your approach is bound to sort it out.

A bit of input from me.
Claire is correct about replacing the fuel lines. Modern fuels now will attack the old rubber and the material will breaks down quicker.
Best to replace with the correct grade rubber.

Also, I would check the filter on the tank (the sock) and make sure that is clear, but also there are no tears in it. If so replace the filter.

If the filter in the tank is doing its job and the new fuel lines have been fitted, then why do you need an inline fuel filter?
i.e. what are you filtering at this point?

In line filters have been known to cause issues with intermittent flow. I am not a fan of them.

Finally: it would be worth checking the flatness of the bottom face of the carb where it fits onto the baseplate.
Any leaks at there can cause issues. I think Ro may have alluded to this in one of the earlier posts?

Cheers,
Andy

Hello Andy yes I re-faced the surfaces also.

A lot of what I did was belt-and-braces and was generally beneficial.

The sock filter is not as fine as the inline filter and so I would still fit the latter but of a reputable brand.

Ref Alan's comment 4 malfunctions in 35 years is amazing. Most manage 35 malfunctions in 4! Only kidding.

.....some great input from everyone there!....many thanks to you all.
I've taken the decision to replace the old air filter housing as the inside of it is in quite a sorry state.
I also think that it has massively contributed to clogging up the carb due to the loose coating being drawn in. I've also found what I think feels like small shards of rubber so may be the fuel lines as suggested. (One I only found when I blew through the fuel return and it came out!)
I've ultrasonically bathed the carbs but only had washing up liquid handy. A fair bit of black dirt and residue was left in the tank.
I'm going to repeat the process when my specialist ultrasonic carb detergent arrives.

I've chosen an air filter from Ramair that suits a Weber 34 DATR.
One thing I've noticed that I'm not sure what to do with however.
In the Haynes manual, the technical drawing of the carb doesn't show a "spigot" for pushing a hose onto. (Maybe a Weber 32 is slightly different to 34)
On my carb, (the 34 DATR), there is a brass hose attachment that goes from the side of the carb and up to the underside of the oil breather inlet on the air filter housing.
Can I just leave this now without a hose on it?.....it doesn't say what it is in the Haynes manual but does show it on the exploded view.

Thanks,

Gaz.

hi
If its what i think it is the hose, then i fitted a bolt into it to blank it off , if you put your finger over it when the engines running and feel a suction , then thats the same hose as i blanked off , also you will be much better off without the oily fumes from the breather being sucked down the carb , and blocking the tiny air correcters that are in the carb it will now stay cleaner , and i get a lot of my info and tips from david moult on you tube he is def worth a view

.....thanks Ric.
I've attached a photo of it with the pen pointing to it.
The two above it are obviously the fuel feed and return spigots.
The one I'm pointing to had a short hose that went up underneath the air filter to the main crankcase oil breather inlet on the original air filter housing.
Where the main oil breather hose attaches to the air filter, there is a smaller spigot underneath where it attached.
Again, just want to know if it okay to leave or blank off.

Thanks,

Gaz.