Hot start and fuel evaporation while moving

Many thanks NRG

I have done 95% of the jobs listed in the thread (ie not the gauze filter check) but still no joy running beyond 2O mins. I do not get the dreaded "cough-brbrbrbrbrbrbrbrb" just a slight stumble and an almost immediate cut out. I am trying to recall if this happened also before i fitted the inline fuel filter before the pump.

Don't "get me started" on the hazard lights: using them for a moment or two then means i cannot use the indicators......I might get another thread going for that one!

RDS

.....I found this old thread on the forum as I am suffering the same issue.
After a successful 20 minute or so perfect drive.....a sudden power loss.
Restart the car.....everything seems fine. It's so annoying as I want to really stretch the X1/9's legs in 2025 and go on some longer trips.

Did anyone pinpoint exactly what the problem was when they fixed it?

Thanks in advance.....Gaz.

Dear Gaz

you are in luck - the problem was with the gaz/gas! The float needle valve was getting stuck in its sleeve and preventing fuel entering the float chamber. The presence of the fuel return line also removed any useful fuel pressure that would have forced the valve down allowing fuel to enter.

After analysing other causes and much experimentation with ignition and vacuum leak checks, I solved this by:
full carb ultrasonic clean, new needle valve, constricting the fuel return line and fitting an electric fuel pump with low PSI, feed and relay. I also checked the carb fan and shielded the coil, carb, fuel lines etc from heat effects.

All that experimentation took months if not over a year to work out. Low mileage car too - I wonder why!

I am sure I posted this subsequently.

No problem since.

Hope this helps.

let us know how you get on.

Cheers

RDS

Hi RDS.....huge thanks for replying so quickly.

My X1/9 is a 1987 with 57k on it. It had the electric fuel pump and electronic ignition fitted when I got it.
The annoying thing is that when it's running normally, it drives and sounds great!
After reading the thread, I was thinking that I should start from the fuel tank removing the sender unit and pipework to clean out the filter.
I was even thinking of replacing the fuel pump even though it might be fine.
Reading further, I was then going to just replace the coil in case it was that.

So you think that maybe I should start with a carb strip down and re-build first?
I did recently remove the jets, clean them through and spray carb cleaner in when running but I guess it's not a strip down.

I've never stripped down and re-built a carb before but it doesn't phase me and I'm up for giving it a go.
Perhaps I should also invest in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner too.

Gaz.

no problem Gaz.

the carb is not difficult to strip to at least 80% and is worth doing. I bought a medium size ultrasonic cleaner and am glad I did - the old tricks of creating a vacuum in the carb throats and letting go quickly did not help. The dedicated Haynes Weber Carb Manual was very helpful for the strip, reassembly and set up. Whilst doing it, you might consider going up a size or two on the idle and main jets and getting a carb re-build kit for gaskets and new floats etc. Clare at Eurosport has a lot of what you need as does Webcon .

I undertook a service at the same time as i went through all the components of the ignition system including testing capacitors, plugs, wiring, switches, coil, rotor, leads, distributor, earths. I tried electronic ignition, ran alternative wiring, tested the alarm immobiliser and moved onto the fuel system. This process led onto some other modifications to the electrical system that are not part of this problem but were fun.

I also cleaned out the fuel sock filter on the float arm in the tank and then replaced it, the arm and the punctured float (have yet to calibrate the new one). The tank was very clean.

I made a simple smoke machine to see if there were leaks in the carb and manifold gaskets in case i was running too lean.

Mine is an 87 also and i do not think your pump and electronic ignition are original. You ought to test them too and replace as necessary afterward. I was happy with my electronic ignition but went back to capacitor just for the remainder of the fault finding to have a base-line.......and have yet to re-fit it.

As for testing ignition or fuel first, I wanted to use the whole episode as an experiment and to get to know the car better so chose to start with the ignition (even though I felt it was fuel). It is also easier to work on for initial tests. My action list was about three - four pages of tests and experiments.

For what it is worth i am having the same symptoms with a motorcycle and the experience from the x1/9 is helping that job immensely.

For the benefit of all, please do report back, even with failures or equivocal results.

Whereabouts are you?

RDS

Hi RDS.....huge thanks again for the info.
I have emailed Eurosport and hopefully Clare will pick it up.
If I'm going to do it, I might as well get the new floats etc as well as the gaskets, filter/sleeves etc. I will ask about the jet size increase also.
I think I'll also check the sock filter in the tank even though I have fitted an in-line filter.
What did you add to the water in the ultrasonic cleaner?.....just a mild detergent?....washing up liquid?
I'm based very near Chepstow in South Wales.

Gaz.

Yes, as you will be "in there" you might as well service everything you see.

Sock filter may be covered in muck so it is worth looking at it to eliminate another potential source of the problem . Just 8 or so nuts to undo at the seal on the bulkhead. I have learned not to look for short cuts on this car.....

I used a proprietary carb cleaning fluid specifically for use in the ultrasonic cleaners (ie not flammable). Perhaps it is just a re-labelled domestic fluid but it was cheap enough to make it a simple choice. The resulting fluid was dirty, and that was after i cleaned the exterior with white spirit to remove most of the general build up of oil-laden dirt.

Rubber and paper seals need to be removed from the carb before cleaning.

I also cleaned out the crank-case breather and flame trap. Post some pics of your pump and check that it can lift fuel from the bottom of the tank - some pumps are only strong enough to work from below the level of the fuel they are pumping.

RDS

Hi RDS.....I've attached some photos of my fuel pump.
I can't see anything on it that would indicate the manufacturer.....was thinking it was Bosch.

Gaz.