Gearbox out... at last and wihbone shim question

Having done the engine in engine out game several times now, i found the best way to fit the shims is to

1/ reasemble the car without them,
2/ Lower it back on the ground and let the car settle back,
3/then jack it back up again,
4/ Working on one bolt at a time support each arm and remove the bolt and push the shims back in place,
this way seems to work for me and only took about 30 mins.
I may have used a little persuader as well.

Mark

I've found the best way to get the shims in is to whip the strut off so that you can use a jack to get the arms to roughly horizontal - ie normal driving condition - then they'll go in easily. Use a screwdriver or similar bar type thingy to hold the arms in place before you go in with the bolts - everything should line up and go together nicely.

ps I had some front poly bushes from the Monte hosp - superb service; painfull price for a few bits of plastic!

Does the car handle better with the poly bushes or is it just that they will last longer before MOT man fails them :

It depends how bad your originals were...



I put new standard rubber ones on my GF a few years back and it felt much better; the poly ones I put on the VS also made a huge difference but I'd say the poly bushes weren't much (if any) better than the decent rubber ones. I only bought poly because I couldn't get original rubber ones.

also poly bushes squeak - very annoying!!

Angle grinder was very close in playing a part. However a mate turned up wacked one side constantly while I had the wendy drill on the other and she finaly gave up. I had no replacement parts so had to save what I had.

However of to the paint shop today for her new coat So excited :lol: ...


Ford ST Orange oh yes. It's a four coat paint system but should be worth it for the look.

let us see the photos when finished! Very loud Orange that ford colour,
what wheels are you putting on?

Mark

Ford Orange lovely. I once owned a MX5 in that colour. Was a thing if beauty. look forward much to seeing it.

Anyway stripped my gearbox. 3rd gear syncro's and slider ring humped.

Hoping that midwest can help with new parts but any other contacts would be helpful.

Cheers

Guy

have just been told that my 1978 4sp box has got 5sp 1st-4th gear cluster as fitted to later cars.

Dose this ring true with everyone??

Cheers

Guy

Was there not a couple of the sync you can turn around to save replacing them?

I think 3rd is one of them.

Can you stick a 5 speed box in instead we have a spare unsure of it's condition but.

Tony.

I have wheels for her already but thinking of getting them chromed. To match the other bits of the car LOL.

Right I have now done a detailed inspection of all the gears in the box. Not good . Even thoght I only had a problem with third, time has taken its toll.

There is a half a tooth missing from 3rd gear, 3rd gear syncros and slider are worn and the 1st,2nd, reverse slider and reverse idler gear are badly worn.

I can get all the replacment parts from midwest but when you add it all up including gaskets, seals etc its getting close to £400.

Anyone got a good spare 4 sp box they could sell me??

cheers

Guy

I do have a 4 speed box, which I partially stripped. (I needed the selector shaft)
However I can't remember how good the gears are. I can open it again at the weekend if you're interested.

Fitting a 5 speed box is an alternative, but there are other parts to change too.
You'll need to change both drive shafts and the rear hub assemblies (take the opportunity to fit new wheel bearings now).
If it's a very late 1300 you may get away with the existing N/S wishbone. If not it'll need modification (a big hammer should do!) or exchanging for one from a 1500. This will give the clearance for the longer gearbox.
I went this route and have been very happy with the results and it's why I've a 4 speed box in the garage.

If I remember correctly the Lido body has the indent in the chassis to accomadate a 5sp. Cant rember about the A arm though. I have a spare 4sp but it had as many problems.

thanks for the replys.

I have thought about going down the 5sp route but have decided I am keen to keep the 4sp box.

Grimy, if you want to part with your faulty 4sp box give me a shout happy to take it of your hands.

Cheers

Guy

Guy till I know my other box is working I'd like to hold on to it for possible parts. The 4sp boxes are quite tough but with weak syncros/sliders. If it were me I'd keep the 4sp if you can. I like the ratios even though it's a bit taxing on a long journey.