1300 resto

Work carries on. On to the rear.



This rear panel was a real pig just like the other side it just doesn't fit so a bit of fettling and just about got it reasonable. Been told to stop on a high so that's all for tonight.

Looks good G. The rear panels what was wrong with them that ment they wouldnt fit??

You dont fancy having a go at my rot box :lol:

Guy

I agree good job, you can come and do mine if you like? free beer and pies

Thanks for the confidence boost. When you buy these panels you are warned that some adjustment will be required. The panels at the sill ends have only one curve and a flat bit so are easy to cut and shape a little. The rear panels have compound curves and must be very hard to make accurate. The problem is you have to fit this panel to three sides one is a seam which you need to get straight. the other side must bolt to the lower valance. It must run close to the floor section and also meet with the seam where you spot weld it. With this panel when clamped to the lower valance it was about 5mil to big at the seam. So I had to move the seam fold down and cut off the excess. The best I could get it was about 8mm from the floor section so I will have to fill the gap with something. Going to attempt the meeting panel next

With my rear arch section, the back would not match the front very well at all AND I had to refabricate 3-4" of inner arch as well from flat 1mm sheet steel :x The sparks flew that afternoon I can tell you!!
Good job ther tho.

Daz I can only sympathise. The panel tonight took a fair bit of whacking to get in to shape but a wee bit of filler on good metal is no problem.

Quite pleased with the final result.

If mine is half as good as your work i will be happy
Wish i had the space for the body frame, how much was it?

Thanks Mark no skill involved just time. You can easy make a rotisserie out of old bits and bobs. Mine is a hospital trolley and some box section from old work desks so cost nothing. I also made a wooden floor section to stabilise it again cost nothing. The X1/9 1300 is almost perfectly balanced on the bumper line so these brackets can be used to support the car and this makes it easy to turn (comparitively!!). I know other people have used supports where the doors were I think I remember Les posting a pic showing them. My sills are in good nick so haven't been removed and also I only work on the car when perpenducular to the forces shouldn't be a problem (I hope).

Great work Grimy

This is the bracing used on yap, more a precautionary measure unless your opening up the sills. X1/9 sills are pretty substantial as long as the rot hasnt taken them.

Thanks Les, yes that's the pic. The X1/9 chassis is very strong so I hope my doors will still fit. (I know they will)

I'm on to the front now and the welding part has been reasonably straight foward but getting this front valance done has been the hardest part so far.



I'm quite pleased with the results considering I got this front spoiler with dissolved metal and had to fabricate my own bits to make it work. The metal backing has been glued to the rubber bit with tiger seal (Great stuff) Considering all the other welding I'm quite pleased with the fit.

Made progress today. Hoped to be ready for this when Andy and Tony were round last weekend to help me lift the car but all went well and it's off the rotisseri and on to a home made dolly.

it is realy starting to come together. Your panel repairs look excellent.

I still have the 1300 cam and other bits waiting for when you need them.

and if you ever need a bit of help at short notice give me a shout and I will pop over (shifts allowing)

Love the colour

Cheers

Guy

Got fed up of bodywork so started looking at the 1300 engine I have. Guy has offered to help me diagnose its condition. First time I've pulled a block apart so have no experience on the condition aspect.




There is quite a lip at the top of the bore. I put the first compression ring in the unworn part at the top and the gap was a massive 3mm. The spec is 0.3-0.45mm!!! so The rings are completely shot I guess. Moved the ring down to the worn part and I could get .25mm extra into the gap. C=pi*D so thats a increase of 0.08mm. With these sort of figures could the block be rebored to 86.4mm and then use 86.4mm rings as on a 1500 with the original pistons or would I need new pistons as well??