Auxiliary shaft seal

1300 cc engine

I think the auxiliary shaft oil seal is leaking. Can this be changed with the engine in the car?

If anyone has done this any tips and guidance would be welcome.

Thanks

Yes it can be done, you are going to need a new cam belt and tensioner as well along with the seal and gasket. The hardest part will be undoing the 17mm bolt holding it on. It’s done up incredibly tight! You will need to stop the pulley from turning somehow, I used the existing cam belt, wrapped 270deg around the pully and anchored off on an exhaust stud with Mole grips. I also used the tensioner after to get that bit more tension in the belt.

You can’t get a socket on the bolt so have to use a spanner, I couldn’t get enough leverage so ended up buying an extra long aviation spanner. When you get the blot undone, undo the three small 10mm bolts holding the plate on and remove making sure the shaft doesn’t pull out, if it does there is a possibility of the fuel pump cam dropping off the shaft meaning you’ll have to remove the pump to get the shaft back in! Good luck!

You can feed rope into the combustion chamber through a spark plug hole when the piston is down, then turn the engine over to compress the rope. If you put enough in then the engine can't physically turn. Make sure you do it with both the valves shut (combustion stroke) or you risk bending a valve. There is a small risk of not being able to get the rope out again, to help prevent this use thinner good quality, braided type rope.

Having tried with the car in gear and handbrake on to stop the engine rotating I doubt that will work. The bolt is done up so tight the pulley will jump the belt. There is a Fiat locking tool but getting one and fitting it with the engine in the car would be near on impossible IMHO

Tbanks for your suggestions with this.

I tried the wrapping an old belt but even with a pry-bar the bold wouldn't move

I have finally done it with a chain wrench - I will post details later - without damaging the wheel

Took great care not to pull the aux shaft out with the seal plate, just ready to put it all back and I managed to pull the shaft out a tiny bit and the fuel pump lever fell off the cam

So off with the fuel pump and the lever has fallen into the sump! I am guessing this won't do anything bad - do they have magnets?

Now all I need is a replacement lever - any ideas please?

as for fuel pump dont bother just fit a electric fuel pump , i bought mine from ultraspark on ebay ,max 4psi and it works just fine , i left the mech fuel pump in place

X1/9 1300 auxiliary shaft oil seal

Geeting the auxiliary shaft nut undone is difficult. This is how I did it on my car with the engine in

NB. If you pull the auxiliary shaft out only a small amount the operating rod for the fuel pump falls off the cam on the shaft and you can’t push the shaft back. Then, when you remove the fuel pump to rescue the rod, the rod falls into the sump. To be safe I would suggest removing the fuel pump and pulling out the operating rod before you start. Mine ended up in the sump!

1) If you don’t have one get a 24-inch long handle chain wrench – got mine from eBay
2) If you don’t have one get a spanner extender for more leverage – got mine from Amazon
3) Loosened the bolt for the camshaft wheel – there was enough grip from the timing belt to do this
4) Removed the timing belt with all the usual procedures for lining up the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks and the distributor
5) Removed the camshaft wheel
6) Removed the cambelt tensioner assembly
7) Removed the tensioner spring assembly from the engine mount
Removed the stud that the camshaft tensioner pulley sits on. This was to get extra clearance when I used the chain wrench. A lock-nut was needed for this and the one for the engine stay bar is the right size so I borrowed that
9) Took the old cam belt that was just removed and cut a length from it which was exactly 30 teeth plus half a space at each end – see photo.
10) Pierced/drilled a small hole near to each end of this section of cambelt. A piece of thin wire was needed to thread through these holes – see photo
11) Wrapped this piece of cambelt around the auxiliary shaft wheel (teeth into the wheel recesses) and secured it in place by twisting the ends of the thin wire together.
12) This piece of cambelt exactly matched the teeth on the auxiliary shaft wheel and protected the wheel when I came to wrap the chain of the chain wrench around it.
13) Positioned the chain of the chain wrench around the auxiliary shaft wheel which was now protected by the piece of cambelt, and hooked it on to the wrench handle as tight as possible. Making sure I had it the right way so that it self-tightened in the right direction, also making sure it didn’t contact the shoulder of the auxiliary shaft wheel and it didn’t press on the twisted securing wire
14) Put the ring spanner for the auxiliary shaft wheel onto the nut and holding the handle of the chain wrench rotated the spanner in the undo direction. The chain then started to self-tighten
15) Once the chain was tight, I rotated the ring spanner so that the handle of the chain wrench was stopped against the end of the camshaft carrier. This gave me two hands to work the spanner. I then put the spanner extension onto the ring spanner and undid the nut