Coolant change and bleeding the system

Gents,

Is there an good guide on bleeding the cooling system on the 1/9? Or does anyone have any plain-English recommendations?

Thanks, H

Put exxi on a decent slope, nose down, put coolant in, put heater on hottest, start her up and keep topping her up as she warms up.
When fan cuts in for second time, let it cut out, switch off and allow to cool, check levels

Agreed, make sure you have the heater circuit open. Also, make sure you have used "blue" coolant. Red attacks the seals in the heater circuit.

However, I think the nose needs to be pointing upwards. The bleed screw is accessed above the radiator under the bonnet. You want the air to migrate to the highest point to let it out. Therefore the bleed screw needs to be raised up. Then run the car ensuring it gets warm enough for the thermostat to open. Turn the car off and open the bleed screw again to get any further air pockets out. Top up levels as necessary.

Works OK for me.

thanks both.

This bleed screw that you mention. Where abouts is it, as I'm guessing it will need a dab of WD40 to help it out

Ok, with the bonnet up, if you have the carpet covering the radiator shroud you will need to pull it back.
Then if you feel along the left hand side under the nose cone you should locate a rubber grommet / cover, pull this out and access to the bleed screw is below this. It's not easy to see and get at. from memory about a 6mm hex allen key should be the one, however, you need to check this.

If you look underneath the front of the car up at the radiator you should just be able to see the bleed screw sticking out above the radiator on the left hand side (near side). This should give you an idea of where you are aiming for

Be careful when trying to open it and close it. If you strip the thread then it's a radiator off job and drain and refill the cooling system again.

many thanks. I have no record of when the coolant was changed last and, having just done the job on my MGF, I thought I would do the same job on the X.

Plenty of WD40 on that bleed screw for a week or so, I think

It's also worth disconnecting a few hoses and flushing round the system with a hose pipe to get rid of any build up of crud in there. If you flush one way then the other it will make a right mess but gives the system a good clean.
I normally try and do mine every couple of years.
I guess you have found the two drain plugs on the steel pipes underneath towards the front of the car? Undo these and as they are the lowest point will get most of the coolant out.
Also if you are getting any cooling issues it might be worth getting the radiator re-cored. This normally solves most cooling issues.

Nose up. The bleeder screw comes out easy if you have a nice cut down to fit allen key, you only need to rotate it about 180 degrees. Also i put a fibre washer under the bleed screw. I drew a diagram of the cooling system which explains which way the water goes. As for the radiator, if that is shot some people on the forum mentioned that a VW Sirocco or similar one fitted well and cost about £50.
If you have not upgraded to or got a stainless expansion tank i think that is a good idea as the plastic ones must be getting brittl by now.

Good info there gents, thank you both.

My header tank is looking a bit manky but appears sound. My whole engine bay could do with tidying up, but that's a slippery slope I'm avoiding this year while I focus on a few bits of cosmetic rust.

One thing I think you guys missed is that the highest point on the coolant system is on the carb/ choke thermo.

I mention this as my car would constantly stall when cold, this was because of one of the following reasons.

The two pipes that connect to the thermo have built up crud in them. (I replace mine. 10mm and 8mm internal measurement)
The system wasn't bled properly and there's an air pocket or steam in the thermo instead of hot water. In this case, the choke won't operate properly.

To Blead just remove the airfilter cover to give easier access to the two pipes and loosen off the top pipe until the bubbles have gone and water comes out.

*whilst typing this is think I worked out why my car was constantly stalling. I think that the choke was always open and therfore when cold wasn't closed as it should be. The only explanation I can think of is that in the past some had removed the thermo and when replaced it didn't get the spring end inbetween the two "holding pins " on the carb, and therefore the choke plate just drops open.

Either way, my car now starts and stays running when cold and I'm really starting to enjoy driving my "new" x

Jason