Clutch and Brake master cylinders

Hi all

My X19 as been stood for 20 years and both pedals have no presure even when pumped. Both resovoirs are full so I am assuming that the master cylinder seals are probably shot. There is no sign of leaks anywhere. Is this a reasonable assumption and if so would I be better just putting new cylinders on.

Rich

Do the whole lot and you will never have to do it again.

Hi Charlie

Thanks for that. Thinking of having you moved down to Warwickshire.

Rich

Ha ha no thanks Rich, you're on your own with one of the most ballbusting jobs on an X19.

Its very important you replace them old supply pipes at the same time. Give Claire a call, she will sort you out with everything you need

www.eurosport-uk.net/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_2

Have to agree with Charles on that one. My most hated job! Also I always have a major problem geting the pedal return spring back on for the brake. Apart from masses of leveage with a screwdriver, slipping and nearly stabbing myself in the process I haven't found an easy or correct way of doing it!

So if you have a hint Charles I would love to hear it cos at some point I have to do the restoration car brakes and clutch!

Hire a midget for the day.

Hi all

Well its all stripped down after a lot of muttering and casting doubts on Italian design. Well clean everything up and try and get it back together, oh joy. Remind me about how much fun this car restoration is.

Rich

Just done the same job on mine, take your time and marvel at the crazy Italianess of it all. Probably the worst job I've done on any car including Rav 4 cambelts.

It must be the season for cylinder changes. I have replaced both master cylinders, clutch slave and all brake callipers and brake lines. I don't want to see any more hydraulics for a long, long time!!

Re clutch return spring .... I just left mine off (I'm sure someone on here suggested it) and now the clutch pedal is a joy to use and doesn't make a loud twang every time I change gear!!

Hi all

At least I don't feel alone ( is this a good thing ). All parts ordered so hopefully we will soon be able to go and stop.

Rich

Hi all

Well the new master cylinders have arrived and been fitted and the pedal assembly is back in position. Not been bleed yet but will have ago over the weekend. So hopefully all ok.

Rich

Hi all

Well everything is back together can anyone offer any advise on bleeding both systems.

Thanks

Rich

I found this for you;

Anyone who as owned an X-1/9 for any length of time has mastered the art of clutch bleeding. The problem is each of us has their own tried and true method.

My one-man operation involves a eezi bleeder. Make sure it fits the reservoir properly, no more than 5-7 lbs pressure and I can do the job in 15 minutes by myself. Rushing the process will most certainly result in spillage, which is deadly to paint finishes.

My set-up is the pump filled 1/4 with fresh DOT4, a clear tube from the slave bleeder to a catch cup on the ground adjacent to the left rear wheel.

I use a broom stick to pry the clutch mechanism slightly disengaged so the slave rod moves out about 1/4 inch (important).

Fill reservoir and pump clutch pedal until fresh new DOT4 fills tube and flows to cup without bubbles (keep reservoir filled).

Close bleeder and connect pump to reservior. Pump up to 5-7 lbs. Open bleeder and wait for bubbles to clear. Close bleeder. Done.

Disconnecting the pump from the reservoir is the trickiest part. Be wary of spilling. Use lots of rags.

This is my way of one-man bleeding and it hasn't failed me yet

Thanks Peter

I have tried using my pressure bleeder. Opened the bleed nipple and fluid flowing through as required but no pressure on the pedal. Re tried several time fluid flow but nothing at pedal.

Rich