Dashboard dial needles question!

Hey guys!

After a run out today to test my oil leak fix, (update on a previous thread!) I had some idling problems when at temperature.
I think I've not set my static timing properly and I'll tell you why.

I've only just noticed that when my car is switched off, the speedometer needle rests on 10 MPH and my rev counter needle rests on 500 revs.
When I set the static timing when at full temperature, I was looking at the rev counter to guide me....I guess idle is usually around 800-1000 revs.
If my needle is starting at 500, I'd be way low which is why I think my car was struggling to idle and cutting out when stationary.

I can of course compensate for this and set it but my question is if anyone has removed the front of the dashboard cluster/bezel before?
I think I've seen someone on Youtube saying you can gently pull off the needles and push them back on pointing to zero.
Has anyone done this?.....is it easy enough?
Gareth.

Hi Gareth,
Yes easy enough. While I havent needed to touch the pointers, I have installed LED illumination.
4 screws attach the pack
pull it towards you, disconnect the speedo drive ( see Haynes page 182)
disconnect the electrical connectors and its out in your hands.
Take care with the 40year old pcb, go slowly and think.
The PCB and gauges all remove together with the PCB and back panel.
Once inside its obvious and the only challenge is reconnecting the speedo drive
but simple enough.

.....brilliant!
Thanks Alan.
Sounds like I might as well replace the bulbs for LED's while I'm at it.

Gareth.

.....the Haynes manual is slightly unclear to me.
I also have the original X1/9 small handbook which is invaluable I reckon.
At what point do you unscrew the speedometer cable?.....from behind the bezel?....that's what the handbook is suggesting.
The Haynes manual doesn't actually say where to unscrew it.....I think they are suggesting under the front right hand scuttle panel after removing the grill?

Gareth.

......well, had a go and took it nice and slow.
Gotta say, that was relatively painless!
Unscrewed the three long screws on the top and the two shorter ones underneath. The binnicle pulled forward but not enough to really get my hand in the gap behind.
So, unscrewed the black grill on the drivers side of the scuttle panel to access the speedo cable and managed to create a little slack in the cable.
That enabled the binnicle to pull forward enough to detach the speedo and the connectors.
Needles just pulled off and have now been reset to zero.
Now to order some LED's while I still have it out of the car!

Well done, it isn't a big job - once you know how to do it of course!
I fitted the 3 colour LED strip all around the insides of the pack so I can change the colour from the little remote they supply with the tape.
A bit of a guddle but that's me. (to be clear, that was instead of changing the wee bulbs)

......thanks again for the quick guide Alan.
I've ordered 10 LED T5's and 4 LED T10's as a straight swap.
The only faff will be that I have a 50% chance of getting them in correctly because of the polarity!
I can see me having to connect up and disconnect a few times as I turn things on and note which lamps aren't operating. That's the only faff with LED's.

Gareth.

Good, but remember - the Ignition warning light for the alternator, it MUST be a filiament type bulb and not LED.
The reason is that this bulb has as one of its jobs is to supply an excitation current to the alternator to excite it, to start the generation process as it were.
But in any case this light only comes on when starting and before the alternator commences generating power
or when the alternator does not produce power - like if the fan belt snaps.

.....thanks Alan!

Information like this is absolute gold and something I would never of thought of.
I will ensure I leave the original filament bulb in for that specific warning light.

All the best,

Gareth.