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K&N

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9 years 5 months ago #37126 by David Moult
K&N was created by David Moult
What do you think of retro fitting K&N air filters? Are they a good idea? Does the breather pipe connect to them or is it dealt with in another way.
I am thinking the carb cooling fan is a waste as it seems to take its air from nowhere cool.

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9 years 5 months ago #37127 by cameron
Replied by cameron on topic K&N
They just make a noise thats all because all they are doing is sucking in warm engine bay air. So what i did was put a pancake k+n in the original air filter housing and run a pipe from the side air scoop to the housing making a cold air feed,much better.

Red over Black VS
Lido
Black 1500

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9 years 5 months ago #37140 by Andy Rowley
Replied by Andy Rowley on topic K&N
David,

I have used a K&N filter for years. I just prefer the look of them and the increased access it gives in the engine bay.

In reality they don't really improve performance and as Cameron says they are sucking in warm air from the engine bay. Fitting a K&N filter to the existing filter housing is a better way to go for performance.

The breather pipe needs a separate filter. Below is a picture of my engine bay showing how I have positioned the crank case breather filter.

At the end of the day it's down to personal preference I think.

Andy



Blue Gran Finale F100FAW
As seen in Classic & Sports car....
As seen in Auto Italia.....
As seen on Fifth Gear....!!!!
Lido ALF 704S

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9 years 5 months ago #37147 by Jeremy
Replied by Jeremy on topic K&N
That is one tidy engine bay Andy!

K&N filters are worth it - even if it is just for the noise :)

Who needs 4th gear anyway...

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9 years 5 months ago #37148 by Martin Rutter
Replied by Martin Rutter on topic K&N
Hi David, I have a used pancake style K&N filter element for sale that fits in the standard air box if you're interested. Bargain price of £7 plus postage. Send me a pm if you are interested.

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9 years 5 months ago #37153 by David Moult
Replied by David Moult on topic K&N
That is a very tidy engine bay Andy. Thanks for all your help. I have decided to wrap as much exhaust manifold and pipe as I can, put a K&N filter in the pancake and put wide bore corrugated tube from the carb intake down somewhere cool. The next area is how to get cool air to the carb cooling intake.

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9 years 5 months ago - 9 years 5 months ago #37156 by Andy Rowley
Replied by Andy Rowley on topic K&N
Hi David,

The engine bay isn't always that clean on my car, however I am a bit OCD with it! :woohoo:

If you run some trunking (tube) from the inlet on the filter housing down towards the air scoop on the near side, you should be pulling cold air into the filter when moving.

Regarding the carb cooling fan; the air is pulled in from the scuttle at the side of the engine bay. There is a seal on the engine cover that when the engine cover is closed means this area is sealed from the engine bay and is drawing in cool (ish) air in to the carb fan.

The picture below shows he seal on the engine cover at the top left hand side of the picture.

I think what you are proposing sounds about right though.


Attachment Untitled.jpg not found


Blue Gran Finale F100FAW
As seen in Classic & Sports car....
As seen in Auto Italia.....
As seen on Fifth Gear....!!!!
Lido ALF 704S
Last edit: 9 years 5 months ago by Andy Rowley.

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9 years 5 months ago #37158 by Hywel Roberts
Replied by Hywel Roberts on topic K&N
Thinking out loud, is there any reason why, if running an aftermarket air filter, you couldn't remove the carb cooler set-up and fit some air trunking from that inlet to your air filter?

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9 years 5 months ago #37159 by David Moult
Replied by David Moult on topic K&N
That would be neat but the space that feeds the carb cooler looks restricted to me. I think cool air struggles to get in there. We will see.
Thanks for the help, its good to have clever people to bounce ideas off.

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9 years 5 months ago #37160 by Andy Rowley
Replied by Andy Rowley on topic K&N
Hywel,
The carb cooling fan helps with the hot starting issue. If you are planning on removing it then it would be sensible to go for electronic ignition (which overcomes the hot start issue).

Just having an after market filter wont get rid of hot starting issues.

Running some air hose from the carb cooling fan inlet hole is one way of pulling cooler air in, but it would be better to have the air hose pointing down towards the air scoop because you will get better air flow in.

That's just my thinking, others may have a different opinion.

Cheers

Andy

Blue Gran Finale F100FAW
As seen in Classic & Sports car....
As seen in Auto Italia.....
As seen on Fifth Gear....!!!!
Lido ALF 704S
The following user(s) said Thank You: Hywel Roberts

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9 years 5 months ago #37162 by David Moult
Replied by David Moult on topic K&N
Andy, does the electronic ignition really solve the hot starting? I have an electric fuel pump, which ignition do you recommend, my birthday is soon. How does the electronic ignition sort the hot start? I am using points at the moment and they work very well apart from hot starts. I heard somewhere that electronic systems can fail due to the high heat levels in the engine bay, is that true for the one you use?

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9 years 5 months ago #37166 by Jeremy
Replied by Jeremy on topic K&N
My car did have lumenition ignition fitted and it still seemed to have the hot starting issue...

But it was not using an electric fuel pump at the time which probably would have helped.

I recon reinstating the manifold heat shield would help. Also wrapping the exhaust.

It's a problem with most engines that have a carb with the exhaust and inlet manifolds on one side. At least when they get hot...

Who needs 4th gear anyway...

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9 years 5 months ago #37169 by Hywel Roberts
Replied by Hywel Roberts on topic K&N
Fair point Andy, that makes sense.

Out of curiosity, what are people defining as a "hot starting issue"? When at working temp, mine needs a 2-3 seconds on the starter & a pump of the throttle pedal before firing up. It's not what I would call a "hot starting issue" though? Or are they all like that?

1500cc, points and mechanical fuel pump, if that ,matters/helps

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9 years 5 months ago #37170 by Andy Rowley
Replied by Andy Rowley on topic K&N
Hot starting issues can be caused by fuel vaporisation and result in erratic running, similar to blocked jets amongst other things.

I have left my GF as built, i.e. points, mechanical fuel pump, and carb cooling fan.
I am lucky in that the exhaust manifold heat shroud is still in place as well!

When I first bought the car the carb cooling fan wasn't working and I had issues when re-starting the car when hot and driving away there was instances of fuel starvation. Once I got the fan working again it cured most of those problems.

Generally I have found if you have the timing set up correctly and the cooling fan is working as it should do then I can re-start when hot with no problems.

If you search through some of the previous technical threads on this forum you will find plenty of further information about this issue. it has been talked about a lot.

I am not over familiar with electronic ignition systems, but I know that quite a lot of people use the lumention one (others are available).

Andy

Blue Gran Finale F100FAW
As seen in Classic & Sports car....
As seen in Auto Italia.....
As seen on Fifth Gear....!!!!
Lido ALF 704S

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9 years 5 months ago #37173 by Anthony Billington
Replied by Anthony Billington on topic K&N
K&N or Pipercross filters are great, remembering the sound of the induction roar is one of the things that's keeping me going on my restoration.

I found an electric fuel pump (facet) sorted out any hot starting issues, it also helps with starting when the car has been laid up for a while. I've got a separate switch for the pump, so I can switch it on, wait for the sound of the return line piddling petrol back into the tank and then crank the engine. Had no problems starting with points, although I'd like to fit electronic ignition in the future. Threw away the cooling fan many years ago, the pump mounts neatly on the fan bracket.

Mechanical fuel pumps can behave oddly when they get worn out or the diaphragm gets holed. I had one that would randomly get an 'airlock', could be after 3 or 30 miles. Only way to get going again would be to take the fuel line off the carb, suck the petrol back through (re-priming the pump I guess) and then you'd be ok for a few more miles. There's nothing like the taste of petrol to spur you on to fixing the problem!

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