Laptop

I need a crummy old laptop for my Megajolt ignition software, the last one melted when I left a halogen lamp on next to it...Doh!

Nothing special, anything considered... Someone must have an old one lying around that they want to turn into cash?

Regards,
Iain

Iain - for keeps or just to borrow ???

Andy, I need it for the summer so prob a bit too long for a loan.

Regards,
Iain

Iain - what operating system / interfaces will it need to have to run the software you have ? Does it need any specific interfaces - I've a very old laptop somewhere in the house - but can't remember if it even works.

No worries Andy I've just bought a cheap damaged one to repair. Even old laptops seem to fetch stupid prices on Ebay so it might be worth digging yours out and listing it. The Megajolt/Megasquirt only needs a serial port, windows 98 onwards and probably a 200Mhz CPU. I had an IBM Thinkpad running 150Mhz but the software is a little more graphical now...

Thanks,
Iain

Have you looked into Tohsiba Librettos? Tiny cute little things but should be more than powerful enough to do what you need to do - I know guys running MoTeC ECU's on their Integrales that use Librettos to set them up...

Just looked on Ebay, awesome wee laptops! They would probably do the trick. I've just managed to get a PIII 800Mhz system for £50, just needs a new DVD drive... I would also rather be running XP than 98 when it comes to communicating with desktop PC, wireless, etc.

Hopefully she will be up and running for the next Scottish meet, the aim is to get rid of all components with "magneti marelli" stamped on them for less than the price of Luminition...

Regards,
Iain

Iain

Any chance of you writing up your installation of the megajolt installation. It looks like a project I would like to undertake.

The three specific questions I have are:

Did you use MAP or TPS as your load sensor.
How did you fit the crank position sensor and the toothwheel.
How did you set up the software.

Thanks

Steve

Steve,

I'd be happy to do a proper write up but I have exams at university just now so it will have to wait a few weeks.

To answer your questions:

1. You don't HAVE to use a load sensor. Megajolt will quite happily churn out an RPM dependant signal which would be similar to a mechanical advance distributor. This is called a 2D map (RPM x Advance)
I used a TPS (throttle position sensor) as I'm also using bike carbs which happened to come with a TPS attached! If you are using the original intake manifold I would recommend MAP (manifold air pressure) as you would just need to plumb in the vacuum line. The megajolt needs a MAP signal from all 4 intake runners combined, so if you are using individual runners (DCNFs, bike carbs, throttle bodies) you can't get a combined signal so best to convert to TPS. Using either load sensor would get you a 3D map (RPM x Advance x Load)

2. I bought a trigger wheel and had it milled out to fit over the ridge in the original crank pully, it was then welded on.

For the CPS (crank position sensor), I fabricated an aluminium bracket which holds the sensor and mounts through the sump bolts.

3. The software on the laptop end is pretty easy to set up, I can supply you with a basic 2D (without load axis) or 3D (with load axis) map to start off with. The software on the megajolt circuit board is slightly more difficult so I chose to get someone else to do it for me

Its a great wee tool to have as it just never misses a beat. You also get a much fatter spark as there is no crusty points or rotor arms involved. The software also allows you to use rev limiters, shift lights and any other RPM or load related output (NOS anyone?!)

Remind me in a few weeks and I'll write an installation guide for the X1/9, in the mean time there is some pretty useful information here:

www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

For the Ford bits you need (coilpack, EDIS module, etc), get yourself to the local scrapyard, preferably the "bring spanners and pick what you want off the pile" type. I paid £15 for enough gear to build 5 kits, used one and flogged the rest on Ebay for £50 a pop Silly Ebayers....

Have fun.

Regards,
Iain

Iain

Thanks very much for answering the questions. Just one more please. Which trigger wheel did you use and where did you get it from.

If its ok I will give you a PM for the map when I am ready.

Good luck with the exams. It still rates as one of the best days in my life when I walked out of the last exam

Steve

Steve,

I used a 5.75" 36 - 1 tooth trigger wheel. Go to your local machine shop with a few beers and get them to mill it out, I cant remember the exact diameter. The crank pulley is a b*tch to weld and apparently it can crack if overheated so try to cool it in between welds. I drilled several small holes before welding to encourage a little more penetration.

Trial fitting (the CPS is now fitted down by the sump)


here is the old 1500 pulley, you can see the ridge I was talking about:


Find triggers here for about £20:
www.trigger-wheels.co.uk/

I would recommend you remove the crank pulley (38mm socket + impact gun). You can then clean it up measure angles and weld on trigger.

IF YOU HAVE A 1300 REMEMBER TO MARK TDC MARKING BEFORE YOU WELD ON TRIGGER WHEEL, OTHERWISE YOU CANT RE-TIME THE BOTTOM END! Guess how I know that :oops:

Drop us an PM if your struggling in any way, I can source most bits.. In fact I have a spare Ford EDIS module and TPS here, make me an offer if you decide to go ahead...

Here is the board before I removed the MAP sensor:


Here is the layout in the '77:



If just uploaded some more pics to my Photobucket archive, go have a look under 'Megajolt'
s43.photobucket.com/albums/e365/IainB1986/

Iain
Last Exam on the 24th....

one more thing, don't remove the dizzy as apparently its used to power the oil pump (can anyone here confirm or deny that?)

one more thing, don't remove the dizzy as apparently its used to power the oil pump (can anyone here confirm or deny that?)

Actually you can remove the distributor if you put the correct blanking plug in its place. The dizzy holds a gear in place which takes drive from the 'aux' shaft to drive the oil pump.
Several Uno's using a camshaft mounted distributor have this blanking plug fitted.

Next time you're in a scrap yard you'll know what to look for.

Many thanks

Iain

Iain

Thanks very much. I will post as I make progress

Steve

Steve, you have PM...

Iain