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Carb jets cleaning advice
- Gareth Lloyd
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I have a really annoying problem with my X1/9.
Car does a cold start absolutely fine. Revs higher during this process of course as the auto choke kicks in.
It's weird...it does idle on my driveway, albeit a little too low.....maybe the idle screw needs adjusting but I've never touched it before.
When I get to full temperature and the auto choke backs off and I go for a spin, I get an intermittant issue that it sometimes won't idle when stationary and cuts out.
I start the car again and have to keeps the revs higher because if I let off the accellerator, it won't idle.
I've not messed about with any mixture settings so have done some digging around and think it may be a blocked idle jet.
Is this quite a common occurance?.....what do you think?
Would the first course of action be to carefully remove each jet, inspect and clean them through before adjusting any mixture or idle settings?
I'd appreciate any advice on removing the jets and how to clean them from anyone that's done this before.
Gareth.
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- ricardo a p roadnight
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- Gareth Lloyd
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Luckily, the inside of my air filter is in good order and all the paint is intact.
I want to tackle this at the weekend and put it to bed.
It's taking the enjoyment out of going out as I'm always thinking that it'll cut out at the most inconvenient time!
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- Alan Hutton
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The carb really benefits from a full valet!
I have collected much information (as well as personal experience) on these Webers.
The are at their best when clean inside - properly clean.
A good fuel filter is prudent. If you try to clean out your petrol tank and see all the crud and crap gathered at the tank bottom
after all these years and miles and the see the state of the filter on the pickup sock!!
My limited advice would be 1. clean out the tank and its pick up sock. 2. Replace all the fuel pipes unless they are new
3. Fit a good in-line fuel filter. 4. Then strip the carb and carefully clean all jets and insides (plenty of advice online, here and your Haynes manual)
This is a fair amount of evening work but should pay dividends in reliability.
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- Andy Rowley
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Certainly replace the fuel pipes if the are fairly old. Modern fuels can attack the old rubber and they start breaking down. The result is bits of crud getting into the carb and jets.
I am not convinced by in line filters. Mainly because they can get blocked themselves and cause a similar issue. You also have to be sure they are fitted the right way around as well.
However, if the fuel filter "sock" on the fuel tank sender unit is in good condition then it should stop crud from the tank being sucked up into the fuel lines, hence, in my opinion, an inline fuel filter is perhaps not needed. That is just my thoughts.
As Alan suggests, there is plenty of information relating to this topic on the website forum. If after cleaning your jets and the carb and doing the other checks, you are still getting the problem then there are other things to look at, but do the obvious first.
Blue Gran Finale F100FAW
As seen in Classic & Sports car....
As seen in Auto Italia.....
As seen on Fifth Gear....!!!!
Lido ALF 704S
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- Gareth Lloyd
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Yes, I have fitted an in line fuel filter a little while ago. (the correct way around...LOL)
I have some time off work soon so would like to get stuck into it.
I think I might order some new fuel lines as suggested as I'm not sure how old my ones are.....should I get E10 to be sure?
I also think I'd like to check the fuel sender unit and sock and maybe renew things there.
I addition to that, I have also disconnected the crankcase oil breather pipe from the air filter and fitted a filter to it.
I didn't want to choke the carb any more the oil fumes.
I also have some spray carb cleaner that I could soak the jets in.
Gareth.
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- ricardo a p roadnight
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- ricardo a p roadnight
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- ricardo a p roadnight
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- Gareth Lloyd
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Okay, I have the jets removed and am soaking them in spray carb cleaner.
I have one question, the bigger longer jets, should you be able to see right through them and out of the end where I have my finger in the photo?
At the moment, I'm holding them both up to the light and I can't see any light when looking directly down the barrel....but I'm not sure if you should be able to.
Gareth.
- ricardo a p roadnight
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- Gareth Lloyd
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Well, anyway....after a good soak and a routine poke through with a wire strand from a brush, I reassembled the jets returned them to the carb. At least the car starts okay and runs.
The only thing I need to tweak is the static timng I think. At full temperature, it's idling around 1000 rpm.
It feels and sounds like it's "racing" a little when idling and I'm getting that familiar "pop....pop...pop" sound from the exhaust rather than a nice steady note.
I also noted that when I dap the throttle and rev a little, it seems to take longer than it should to return to idle.....not much but noticable.
The next big test is to take it for run and hope it doesn't cut out when stationary!
Again.....any advice welcome!
Ric....on closer inspection of my air filter housing, I can see it blistering. Maybe I am getting flakes being drawn into the jets?
Send me or post the link to the new one you installed, I'd like to take a look.
Gareth.
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- ricardo a p roadnight
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- Gareth Lloyd
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I've emailed Burton Performance and Eurocarb for air filters that will definately fit the Weber 32 DATR type carb.
Remind me what you did with your carb cooling fan ducting?
Did you just remove it all including the fan because with the swap out, the carb fan cooling isn't now necessary?
Gareth.
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- ricardo a p roadnight
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