Help!...engine not firing after cambelt change

Hi All,

I'm hoping some of you lovely forum members might offer me some advice.
I thought I'd start a new thread as I am hopefully 90% there with my cambelt and alternator belt change.
So, it's been a bit of a faff but luckily I've had a week off work and not been in a massive rush so just taken my time.

This was an important task for me as one of the reasons I wanted an X1/9 was so I could stretch myself learning how to maintain it. As I mentioned when I joined to forum, I'm a site manager for a construction company. I'm not a mechanic but have always had a healthy interest in mechanics.

So.....after a few frustrating moments, I have successfully changed the cambelt and alternator belt.
Followed as much advice as I could find and hand cranked the engine a couple of revolutions to check the timing marks still lined up.

The crankshaft pulley timing mark lines up with the centre mark denoting 5 degrees BTDC for a carburetor 1500cc. The camshaft pulley timing mark also lines up with the pointer on the timing bracket.....all okay!

Had a final check around and turned her over but she's not firing. I can only think that I've missed something relating to the distributor.
I'm a little confused here because I've seen X1/9 workshop books saying that the distibutor rotor arm should be pointing at the cylinder 1 contact when the TDC timing marks line up.
I've also seen another cambelt change guide saying that the rotor arm should be pointing at the cylinder 4 contact.

I'm fairly sure that my rotor arm was pointing at the cylinder 4 contact in the distributor cap when I slipped off the old cambelt. I still think it is but I'm wondering if she's not firing because the rotor arm is just a little bit off of the cap contact......would that be enough for it not to fire?
The toothed pulley that operates the distributor moves really easily and I wonder if its moved a little when the new belt went on.

The next question is.....can I adjust this without removing the new cambelt?.....can I undo the locking bolt at the base of the distributor and turn it slightly?

Gaz.

Last question - Yes, that is how the Ignition timing is normally adjusted.
Have you checked for a spark (just to rule out any ign related question!}
Petrol + Spark (at about the correct timing) = running

Hi Alan,

Many thanks for the reply.
I haven't checked that as I assumed everything was fine as it was running well before the belt change....I know....never assume!

Well, I've checked the crankshaft pulley marks, the camshaft pulley marks and the flywheel marks. They all seem to line up as near as dammit.
A bit of a faff because it was stuck fast but I've managed to remove the access panel behind the spare wheel.
I've marked on the body of the distributor where the rotor arm is pointing and also where the cylinder 4 contact is.
I think I've found my problem!.....the rotor arm is approximately 10-12mm out of rotation in relation to the cylinder 4 contact. The auxilary pulley must of moved slightly when putting on the new belt.

Now, my question is...do I need to slip off the new belt again and adjust the auxilary pulley so the rotor arm lines up to the mark or is there a way I can do it by loosening the distributor body. If I loosen the 13mm retaining bolt, will the distributor body turn independently without turning the rotor arm so I can close up the 10-12mm?
Gaz.

Alan......there's a lesson to be had here and I doth my cap to you!
Thought I had everything correct and just could not get her to fire up.
I took a deep breath and just gazed at everything in the engine bay maybe hoping for something to catch my eye that looked wrong.
I found it......with all of the wrestling I've done in the engine bay with my hands that resemble a bunch of bananas, I found that I'd innocently pulled a spade connector off from the top of the coil.
I had mixed emotions of elation, frustration at myself and hopelessness......I guess we've all been there.
Anyway, she's running and doesn't sound too bad. I may have to get someone to strobe it though.

Thanks,

Gaz.

EXCELLENT Gareth!!
These cars are fortunately really simple with almost zero electronics (shame that is my field for the past 50+years ha ha) so no
computers to do sly and hidden things invisible to you!
While a multimeter is useful, I believe a little 12V bulb can help diagnose 90% of any electrical issues.

Timing, yes a strobe is ideal but similar tuning can be done with - does it sound right and is the acceleration optimum?
There is also a way (google it) of setting the timing statically - just using that wee bulb and rotating the dizzy with the crank at the 5deg mark,
I'm no expert as I haven't done it this way for over 45years!
At least its running, let the fun begin.

That will keep you going till a strobe can set it.

i did mine by ear , once it was running idling , i slowly turned the dizzy one way tilll it started to stutter , then back the other way until it was idling smmothly , im not sure if that is correct way , but it seems to run fine plenty of acceleration , and fires up 1st time

Hi Ricardo,

Yes, that's exactly how I did mine.....by ear turning the dizzy once I'd lined up the rotor arm with the cylinder 4 contact whilst all pulleys at 5 deg BTDC.
Took it for a good run today and had so much joy!.....it seemed to be running great and sounded awesome!

Funnily enough, the cambelt change is not something I'd rush to do again but now I've done it, the next one could probably get done in less than half the time!
Hopefully not for a long while yet.

Gaz.

Massive well done mate!! Being brave to have a go and asking questions as you go, and we ALL learn by our mistakes.. health to enjoy... whats the next task??

Hi Stu......thanks mate!
Again, one of the many reasons for an X1/9 was so that I could learn the essential mechanical skills to maintain it in the future.
I love the fact that there's no power steering, no ABS and no complicated electronics!

So, the oil change and filter done, now the cambelt and alternator belts done.
The next small job will be removing the air filter and cleaning the carbs and throttle assembly with the correct cleaner.

The next bigger jobs will either be draining down and replacing all of the coolant hoses for new or replacing the discs and pads.

Gaz.

Brilliant Gaz, if you are able to tackle a timing belt as your first job... holy smokes.. you are on fire.. disc and pads is soooo straight forward, and air filter lift and cleaning carbs with a carb cleaner with your hand on the throttle giving full load as the cleaner attempts to kill the mixture combustion.. thats fun and cool to do.. you cant go wrong! Sorry..lol, actually we can ALL go wrong.. but with a bit of wit and forward thought.. easy peasy.

Taking the carb top off to inspect underneath, setting floats and clearing debris, jet removal and good clean is all within everyones capability.. but there are areas of careful attention that needs to be excerised, whether that is the gasket that splits as you remove, brass jets that don't crack lose, or the finer workings of linkages to allow separation of the carb top from main body.. ok, that takes a little more care, but it can be done with the right strip mentality, technical resource, and good tools for the job in hand..

Brilliant Gaz, your giving your italian prize and joy life and awarding small joys to your own sanity

.....thanks Stu.
I was only thinking of spraying the externals first and giving it a brush in.
Then a small squirt internally and cleaning with a rag with the valve open.
Lastly, fire her up and gently squirt in carb cleaner when revving using the throttle assembly. (when at temperature)
Does that sound okay?

Gaz.

Totally sounds ok... and your right Gaz, spraying with gentle throttle openings, then increase the throttle open while squirting carb cleaner in both primary and secondary chokes AND also the two inner jets inside the yellow circle, the whole bloody thing...lol.. If the engine revs start to die, finger off carb cleaner tin, let the revs recover and build back up and spray again to balance revs against spray... if you know what I mean... Increase throttle opening.. and induction sound as you go. The two inner jets with the holes in them (air corrector jets) are connected to the various fueling circuits within the carb, mostly idle and main fueling circuits.. So squirting down there with some luck removes the gum from idle, progression and main circuits to a certain extent, along with the emulsion tubes and main jets below the air correctors.. If carb issues still persist, then it certainly requires a strip, But heck, this can certainly cure and basic clean a carb. There is plenty of weber circuit explaination online if you really want to understand the different fueling circuits of a carb.. and it does make sense. Have attached a pic of my carb outlining the primary and secondary choke, with the jets inbetween.